2001 proves a very good year for California zinfandel

More zinfandel grapes are grown in California than anywhere in the world. No one does it better.

I asked the wine-tasting group to compare five zinfandels in the $15-$30 range. Here is what we found:

- 2001 Rombauer Vineyards Zinfandel at $27.99. In the aroma, we found coffee, spice, pepper and jammy black fruit. In the mouth, it was less peppery and elegant. Simply said by one taster, it was "big and gorgeous." Others agreed. It ranked first in our tasting.

- 2001 Frog's Leap Zinfandel at $25.99. This had a grapy, vanilla aroma that reminded us of raspberry cream soda. The nose was more aggressive than the effect on the palate, which was leaner and less full-bodied than the aroma promised, yet it was a remarkably easy-to-drink wine, good for drinking by itself or with food.

- 2001 Clos La Chance Zinfandel at $17.99. This wine had a lighter color than the others with an aroma of clove, cinnamon, tea and bananas. The bananas and hints of ripe fruit continued on the palate, favored with a lush texture. Tasters thought this wine's character unusual for a zinfandel, except for the pepper on the finish.

- 2001 Ridge Paso Robles Zinfandel at $26.99. This nose offered tobacco and red and black fruit. It had plenty of tannins, which give wine structure over time but can make your mouth pucker in the wine's early years. This wine was less fruity than one might expect for a zinfandel, but it was a clean-tasting wine with balanced fruit and acids. It had white pepper on the finish.

- 2001 Bonny Doon Cardinal Zin at $21.99. Bonny Doon's makers always try to have a sense of humor while making serious wines. They succeeded with this zinfandel, with its play on words about a "cardinal sin." The aroma was full of blackberry jam and vanilla from the oaking. Red and black raspberries exploded in the mouth, backed up by plenty of tannins. The Bonny Doon finished second in our tasting.

Surfing the wine shelves

- 2002 Woodbridge Johannisberg Riesling at $7. Honeyed fruit and floral notes filled the aroma. The honey character carried over to the palate along with a fruity sweetness.

- 2000 Rosemount Estate Show Reserve Shiraz at $23.99. The aroma was full of plum, spice and oaking. On the palate, we found toasty oak, more spice and black fruit. You can drink this wine now, but it will keep for a while.

- 1997 Montepaone Toscana at $45. This wine was 100 percent cabernet sauvignon, a powerful yet soft and elegant wine. The aroma was full of red berries, and the texture was lush and elegant yet firm. Drink this now or keep it a few years.

- 2000 Sassoalloro Toscana at $30. This wine had a fresh, floral nose with ripe red cherries. In the mouth, it was concentrated with plenty of fruit and tannins. We found a hint of pepper on the finish.

- 2001 Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay at $37. For those who don't like an overly oaked or buttery chardonnay, this is one you should try. The aroma was powerful, full of Granny Smith apples and all sorts of tropical fruits, especially pineapple. The flavors exploded in the mouth in a well-balanced, mouth-filling texture.

Questions can be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203 or e-mailed to editor