A bit of Italy blossoms in the Finger Lakes

Consulting on computer systems as a project manager was just not enough to fulfill Michael Litterio's life.

"Winemaking has always been in my family -- my grandparents did it and I helped," Michael says. "It has always been in the back of my mind."

Michael began making his own wine in his 20s. He even planned on going to college in California to pursue a winemaking career. Instead, in 1996 he took a chance on Grayson County College in Denison, Texas, a school that offered viticulture and enology classes.

During his first semester, he met Paul Bonariggo, owner of Messina Hof Winery. Michael's goal of a two-year degree in winemaking became an afterthought as he began working at the winery, eventually moving up to the position of assistant winemaker.

It was during his stay in Texas that he also met and fell in love with Elena Consoli. The couple married in March 1997.

Starting a family can put other dreams on hold for a little while. Michael returned to New Jersey and concentrated on the computer consulting business to provide for his family.

But in 2000, he still had the bug for the wine business. He attended a wine seminar sponsored by Vineyard & Winery Management magazine at Red Newt Cellars and Bistro in Hector. After the presentation, Michael drove around Seneca Lake and saw that Squaw Point Winery in Dundee was for sale. A year later, the building, a few acres of land and the winery's phone number were his, and the Villa Bellangelo Winery and Vineyards was created.

In 2002, Michael contracted to have grapes crushed and pressed to provide juice so that he could his make his first wine. Because he was still living in New Jersey, he made his wines only available through the Internet until the business opened on weekends this summer.

The phone number that Michael acquired when he bought the property provided a little magic of its own. He hoped to have someday an Italian-style restaurant to feature his wines. The Squaw Point Winery's for sale sign was still posted, however. Chris Asiello of Corning called because he was interested in opening an Italian restaurant in the area. Michael sat down with Chris and Chris's father, Michael Asiello Jr., a week later to explore the possibility of working together.

It must have been a good meeting, because start today the winery will be open seven days a week, affording more exposure for the wines.

Chris is moving to Dundee to minimize travel time as he takes on the day-to-day operation of the facility. He will be doing remodeling over the winter and hopes to have the restaurant open by spring.

"A lot of people are excited about the winery and (the potential for) dining. We want to provide a family experience, at a reasonable price," Chris says.

He won't be alone in the business. His parents, Michael Jr. and Vivian, are both retiring from teaching careers in the Northern Tioga School district this spring. (Ah, another couple that can look forward to being busier in retirement than when they worked fulltime.)

Michael Jr. will prepare family-style Italian meals in the kitchen for Vivian to serve. For now, visitors will have to settle for the three 2002 vintage wines offered for tasting.

Jeff Richards' wine column appears Saturdays.

Villa Bellangelo tasting notes

- 2002 Bella Bianca: a blend of Vidal and Seyval blanc with straw and mineral tastes. Austere, with restrained fruit flavor.

- 2002 Sogno Di Sophia: a smooth, sweet blush wine made with a blend of Vidal and Catawba grapes. The Vidal cuts the sweetness of the Catawba, yielding a balanced wine with a clean finish.