New Zealand pinot noir enjoys image uplift

New Zealand comes to the pinot noir market competition fairly late compared to bottles from other countries on the shelf.

Frankly, I have not been a fan of the New Zealand pinots. The prices were high and their quality was a couple of notches below competitors in the same price range. That is, until the 2002 vintage. Then things began to turn around.

The price for New Zealand pinot is still rather high, but now some is worth tasting.

I asked the wine tasters to compare four of them available now. Here are the results:

- 2002 Nautilus Pinot Noir at $21.99. This wine had an earthy aroma with red plums and raspberries, roasted coffee and caramel. In the mouth, it had lots of tannins, those chemicals in grapes that over time give wine structure but can be astringent in their youth, making your mouth pucker. The Nautilus had a smooth texture with a good bit of alcohol. The finish was nice. It placed first in our tasting.

- 2000 Omaka Springs Reserve Pinot Noir at $19.99. This wine's aroma reminded us of stewed tomatoes. The wine had a light orange color. In the mouth, it was lacking acids, making it taste too creamy or what wine experts call "flabby."

- 2002 Huia Pinot Noir at $26.99. This wine's aroma had a green herbal, smoky quality, with pleasant smells of bacon fat. We also found aromas of geraniums and cherries. It had good acidity and would be a nice companion with all kinds of food. It ranked third in the comparison.

- 2003 Kim Crawford Pinot Noir at $14.99. This wine's aroma reminded us of raspberry jam and cherries, backed by a most pleasant earthiness. We tasted more sweet fruit on the tongue along with a hint of tobacco. We ranked it second in the tasting. The Kim Crawford had a screw cap, but don't let that deter you. This is a great value for $15.

Surfing the shelves:

- 2002 Coastal Ridge Chardonnay at $7. Green apples and pear are the main flavors, along with a hint of oak, in this simple but pleasing wine for under $10.

- 2001 St. Clement Merlot at $28. This wine was made with 23 percent cabernet sauvignon, which gave it much more oomph. We found dark berries, mocha and oak in the aroma. In the mouth, it was spicy with touches of oak and black cherries.

- 2002 Toad Hall Pinot Noir at $18. This wine had traditional pinot aromas of cherries and strawberries with a hint of earthiness. In the mouth, the fruit made the first, dominant impression. The texture was rich and dark.

- 1998 Dow's Late Bottled Port at $18. If you want an inexpensive way to get a hint of what the Dow's regular port tastes like, try this bottle. Its aroma was nutty and spicy, in the mouth rich with mature, sweet fruit.

- 2001 Spring Mountain Elivette at $90. This Bordeaux-style blend had an aroma of black currants and dark fruit with a hint of plum and cherries. In the mouth, the texture was feminine -- but a strong woman with a sexy style. The finish was long.

- 2003 Beringer Gewurztraimner at $8. The aroma showed honeysuckle, orange and spice. In the mouth, we tasted peach and citrus fruit.

- 2002 Markham Chardonnay at $19. The aroma was full of lemon, pineapples and other tropical fruits. The wine had a rich texture, tasting of spice and then lemon in the finish.

- 2001 Villa Antinori Toscana at $23. This wine was a blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. This medium-bodied "Super Tuscan" tasted of cherries, plums and currants, with undertones of earth and wood.

- 2001 Tormaresca Torcicoda Primitivo at $20. This wine was mature tasting with rich fruit and meatiness in the texture. Pepper and spice flavored the aroma and then the long finish.

Questions may be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville 37203, or e-mailed to editor@tennessean.com.