Hungarian heritage inspires Heron Hill event
Jeff Richards' wine column for Saturday 8/28/04
What recipe calls for 40 pounds of chuck roast, 30 pounds of onions, six bottles of wine and three Hungarian hot peppers?
It's a stew for friends and relatives celebrating National Hungarian Day.
Heron Hill winemaker Thomas Laszlo started his stew Aug. 20 for his gathering held Sunday afternoon. Sunday morning, Thomas' father Ervin and Heron Hill assistant winemaker Ian Barry were found keeping on eye on the three pots of stew simmering over an open wood fire.
Ervin and his wife, Marg, were both born in Hungary, but emigrated to Canada in the 1950s where they met. Although Thomas was born in Canada, he maintains his Hungarian roots.
While adding the fourth and fifth bottles of wine to the stew, Thomas talked about his ties to Hungary. He remembered learning both Hungarian and English while growing up with his brother and sister in Canada. As an adult, he helped make wine in Hungary, spending five months of the year there before coming home to Guelph, Canada. For this celebration, he had gathered a whole tableful of books and maps about Hungary's history, wine regions and attractions.
Thomas said his recipe is called "marha porkolt," or beef stew. He started by rendering the fat out of 5 pounds of pork belly. After skimming off the fat, he seared the cubed chuck roast, and then added 2 pounds of chopped garlic, onions, 10 pounds of green peppers, 4 pounds of red peppers and 2 pounds of plum tomatoes. He added 4 pounds of already-roasted beef marrow bones, which added to the rich flavor and thickened the stew.
After throwing in the Hungarian yellow peppers, he added a pound of mixed sweet and hot paprika.
Finally, he added three bottles of Heron Hill Pinot Noir, salt and pepper to taste, and allowed everything to simmer for several hours.
On Sunday, he added the second dose of wine -- two bottles of Heron Hill Cabernet Franc. He kept tasting and tasting from each of three cauldrons, and muttering that something was missing from his stew. Finally, he called for another bottle from Ian -- this one a red Eclipse (a blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot) -- and pronounced the stew done.
While Thomas was finalizing his stew, Marg was in the small Heron Hill kitchen preparing the Hungarian version of fried dough, called "langos."
This treat, made from bread dough stretched by hand and fried in oil, is served with garlic-infused olive oil, salt, shredded cheese, sour cream and, if you can stomach it, slices of fresh Hungarian peppers.
Although Ervin and Marg were only too glad to help, both say they refrain from telling Thomas how to cook or how to make wine. When Marg suggested that he use less onions in the recipe, his response was that people liked his version better.
Ervin is proud of his son's accomplishments, and figures that helping to keep the fire going is as much meddling with the meal as he wants to do.
Even Gov. George Pataki recognizes Heron Hill's accomplishments.
In a written response to the winery's invitation to join the party, the governor congratulated Heron Hill for winning the Best of Show White Wine at San Francisco's International Wine Competition.
Pataki also mentioned his own Hungarian roots while politely declining the invitation.
Although the 2002 Johannisberg Riesling that won the award may not be available, I did taste some other wines that you still can buy. The 2003 White Eclipse is a blend of three grapes. You definitely can taste the chardonnay, well-blended with the crisp, clean pinot gris and tropical sauvignon blanc flavors.
The Ingle Vineyard 2002 Pinot Noir has a black cherry and oak taste and is a very full, rounded wine.
On a sunny Sunday afternoon, Thomas paired the old-world charm of his Hungarian stew with some of the best wines the Finger Lakes has to offer.
Jeff Richards' wine column appears each Thursday on the Twin Tiers Life Food Page. For comments or questions, he can be reached at 607/271-8279 or 800/836-8970, ext. 279, or e-mail: jrichards@stargazette.com
Heron Hill tasting notes
2003 White Eclipse: blend of chardonnay, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc; crisp, clean and tropical flavors.
The Ingle Vineyard 2002 Pinot Noir: black cherry and oak taste; a very full, rounded wine
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