More grapes mean fewer dollars for pinot noir

Not that long ago, it was difficult to find a decent American pinot noir for less than $15.

An abundance of good grapes and the competitive pressures of wines from other countries have forced the prices down for many domestic red wines.

I asked the wine tasters to compare five U.S. pinot noirs costing less than $15. Each wine was sacked and numbered before the tasting. Tasters then voted by sack number for the wines they liked best. Here is what we found:

- 2002 Cartlidge & Browne Pinot Noir at $10.99. The aroma reminded us of cherries, raspberries and coffee. It was surprisingly smooth in the mouth. It had a lot of alcohol but a really nice texture for a wine in this price range.

- 2002 Echelon Pinot Noir at $12.99. This wine was more elegant than the Cartlidge & Browne. In the aroma, we discovered floral notes, particularly roses, and also toffee with an earthy background. In the mouth, we tasted cherries and firm or well-balanced tannins (those chemicals in grapes that give wine structure but can taste harsh and make your mouth pucker when young). It had a nice finish, with a hint of spice. The Echelon finished first in our tasting. It would go well with grilled salmon.

- 2002 Mark West Pinot Noir at $12.99. This wine had a French (Burgundian) aroma of earthiness, sour cherries and orange peel. The flavors in the mouth reminded us of Grand Marnier: sweet and nice. It had good tannins, although a little more astringent than the others. The Mark West finished second in the tasting.

- Nonvintage Biltmore Estate Cardinal Crest Pinot Noir at $9.99. This wine had a cherry color and pleasant vegetable aromas, suggesting tomato vines and green peppers. In the mouth, we tasted plenty of black pepper, oaking and cherry fruit, but they did not quite mesh harmoniously.

- 2003 Duck Pond Pinot Noir at $14.99. This wine had the lightest color of the five. The aroma suggested tar and tobacco along with cherries, herbs and peppers. In the mouth, the Duck Pond had the most delicate texture of the five, and the flavors were somewhat peaty.

Surfing the wine shelves

- 2001 Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon at $49. Another lovely vintage from Chimney Rock, this wine offered an aroma of black currants, black cherries and cedar. It was lush in the mouth with a taste of vanilla. It had an elegant finish.

- 2001 Talbott Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay at $42. This was a pricey but delicious chardonnay, full of citrus and tropical fruits. It was a mouthful, with a soft and creamy texture but enough acids to make it a good food wine.

- 2002 Francis Coppola Diamond Series Blue Label Merlot at $17. The aroma offered plum and currants, with a bit of pepper and spiciness. The spice probably comes from the 9 percent syrah blended with 91 percent merlot. We tasted chocolate on the finish.

- 2001 Peter Lehmann Barossa Valley Shiraz at $16. Plum, dark fruit and a bit of chocolate emerged in the aroma. It had a soft finish.

- 2003 Castello di Gabbiano Pinot Grigio at $10. Light and delicate, the aroma reminded us of pear and melon with floral hints, including honeysuckle. On the palate, there were green apple flavors and hints of lemon.

- 2003 Cecchi Litorale Vermentino Toscana at $17. Vermentino is a well-regarded white grape in Italy that, in this bottle, produced flavors of tropical fruit. It had a crisp finish and would be a good everyday food wine.

Questions can be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203 or e-mailed to editor