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The Wine Guy
Jeff Richards' wine column for Saturday 7/24/04

Buttonwood Grove Winery grows in Romulus

The Wine Guy column by JEFF RICHARDS

Buttonwood Grove Winery is firmly planting its roots in Romulus.

JEFF RICHARDS/Star-Gazette
The tasting room at Buttonwood Grove Winery in Romulus features large, ceramic tiles on the floor and two sliding glass doors to the deck that overlooks Cayuga Lake.
"I was born here. It was always on my mind, the broken (vineyard) posts as a reminder," says owner Ken Riemer, referring to land near Cayuga Lake that he has owned for 30 years.

Ken owns the Village Greenhouse, a floral and garden center in Trumansburg that he has run for the last 30 years.

"Horticulture, that's what I do for a living. I like people; it's a people business," Ken says.

He feels that growing grapes and opening a winery is the next logical step in his business plan to take advantage of all the people that go by the winery property along Route 89.

Ken planted seven acres of chardonnay, Riesling and cabernet franc grapes almost six years ago on the former Concord grape farm. He added some more Riesling and merlot this spring to bring the total up to about nine acres of grapes.

The winery opened for business March 20. General manager Mari Rector oversees the tasting room and day-to-day operation of the business. It was almost magical how Mari wound up getting her job offer. She had gone to college at Fredonia State and earned a degree in elementary education.

She thought a summer job she took at Lucas Vineyards in Interlaken would just tide her over until the fall.

"I fell in love with the business," Mari says. "Before, I didn't have an appreciation of wine. In many ways, (working in a wine tasting room), it's like teaching -- sharing information. You see people from all over the country, the world."

Her summer job at Lucas turned into a four-year stint during which time she learned a lot about the Finger Lakes wine industry. When Mari decided it was time to move on, Ken got wind of her plans to leave Lucas.

"We sat down and talked about what was going on here, and he offered me the job," Mari says.

For now, Buttonwood Grove Winery partners with a few area wineries to make its wines. Grapes from their original plantings are used by the wineries producing their wines.

While working with the wineries, Ken gives them an idea of what style and taste he is looking for in the finished product that eventually will be offered in his tasting room.

Mari poured their wines for me to taste during a recent visit. The 2002 Reserve Chardonnay had a light, buttery taste, with good balance of fruit and oak flavors.

The 2002 Chardonnay was a refreshing wine with more prominent fruit and citrus flavors. Mari characterized it as a "nice summertime chardonnay." I agree.

The 2002 Cabernet Franc had an earthy nose with good fruit and berry flavors.

The winery is off to a good start with a good wine selection and a spacious tasting room. It is designed with a high ceiling and sliding glass doors that lead to the deck overlooking the vineyards and Cayuga Lake. Sandstone color ceramic tile is used throughout the facility, including the surface of the tasting bar.

By this time next year, Ken plans to add overnight accommodations to Buttonwood Grove. Rustic cabins will be located in the woods on the hillside behind the wine-tasting facility. Ken wants visitors to be able to have a nice relaxing time, drink some wine and have some cheese. He even has a 12-foot bamboo pole available for anyone who wants to try his or her luck fishing the pond stocked with sunfish and bass.

"People demand certain quality; that's what keeps you in business," Ken says.

With all of his good plans and attention to detail, Buttonwood Grove is quite a catch.

Jeff Richards' wine column appears Saturdays. For comments or questions, he can be reached at 607/271-8279 or 800/836-8970, ext. 279, or e-mail: jrichards

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