JEFF RICHARDS/Star-Gazette Amy and David Hoffman in their Tuscan-style tasting room at Rooster Hill Vineyards in Penn Yan

Winery an answer to two workaholics' vacation wish

The couple's five annual visits to the Finger Lakes had been blissful retreats from the high-stress jobs waiting back in California.

There had to be a way, they reasoned, to make a living and spend more time in the area they had come to cherish.

Amy was a marketing executive for a high-tech company and David was a financial planner and tax adviser. Their jobs required lots of travel around the country.

They just wanted to find a small place along Keuka Lake, but after looking at 50 to 60 homes, they decided to build a new Victorian-style home. Not until after their home was built did Amy and David learn that several acres of neglected vineyard nearby were for sale.

Shortly after they purchased the land, the idea of creating their own winery began to take shape.

The Hoffmans spent countless hours attending wine events and educational seminars. They also learned about the area wine business from other winery owners and winemakers before developing their own operation.

Now that planning has brought Rooster Hill Vineyards, and a touch of Tuscany, to the Finger Lakes.

Stop by the winery at 489 Route 54 in Penn Yan, and you'll see the walls of the tasting room glowing with the warmth of "Tuscan gold," as Amy describes the color. Deep green provides a soothing look for the lower section of the walls.

A chair-rail height copper strip, punched by Amy with a repeating pattern of barn, rooster and sun shapes, divides the two colors. Large beams overhead add to the country-style Tuscan atmosphere.

Although Rooster Hill Vineyards just opened in May. The Hoffmans began producing wines in 2000, using grapes from other sources. They expect their own first fruit in 2004.

Gardens with a variety of flowers and bushes surround the winery, which is on the east slope overlooking Keuka Lake. There is a magnificent view of the sparkling waters from the tasting room as well as from other vantage points on the grounds.

Rooster Hill provides an upscale yet casual atmosphere in which customers may sample wines.

Here are my notes on some I tasted last week:

- The 2002 Riesling had citrus and apricot tastes. It was a dry wine with a very clean, refreshing finish.

- The 2002 Cayuga had citrus flavor as well, accompanied by pear and pineapple tastes. It also had a clean, refreshing finish.

- The 2000 Merlot had a fruit and oak nose. The pleasant-tasting red wine provided cherry and oak flavors.

Looking ahead, Rooster Hill Vineyards will host a Twilight Tasting and Wine Workshop from 7 to 9 p.m. Thursday, July 10. The workshop will focus on Riesling wines from the Finger Lakes and around the world.

Barry Tortolon, Rooster Hill's winemaker, as well as special guest Rob Bourdelais, instructor for University of Rochester wine appreciation, will be on hand. Call 315/536-4773 for reservations.

Jeff Richards' wine column appears each Thursday on the Twin Tiers Life Food Page.