Looking for a power wine? Go for petite syrah

Petite syrahs are not for the faint of heart.

Other masculine vs. feminine comparisons apply: muscular, aggressive, strong, dominating.

You get the idea.

As the wine cliche goes, there is nothing petite about a petite syrah.

Petite syrahs are so strong that for many years they were rarely sold as a 100 percent varietal (made from a single grape). Instead petite syrahs were blended with weaker red wines that needed oomph.

They usually are overly tannic. Tannins are those chemicals in grapes that give wine backbone and structure. When young, tannins can make the wine taste astringent and make your mouth pucker.

A petite syrah can bring an extremely rare steak to its knees.

Some wine experts argue that petite syrah is an acquired taste -- you have to learn when to pair an aggressive, tannic wine with the right food. Others say belly up to the wine bar and have at it, heavy oaking and tannins and all.

If you hate a purple mouth, go buy a chardonnay. If you like sweet wines, go get a white zinfandel. If you like power, try a petite syrah.

I asked the wine tasters to compare five petite syrahs. After our mouths stopped puckering, here is what we found:

- 2002 David Bruce Petite Syrah at $17.99. In the aroma, we found blueberries, a slight saltiness and fruity sweet notes. In the mouth, the wine coated the tongue. We tasted unripe raspberries. The David Bruce's dry nature removed all the moisture from our mouths, leaving dense wine flavors on the tongue. This wine cried out for a rare, well-marbled rib-eye steak.

- 2000 Guenoc Petite Sirah at $18.99. This wine's aroma reminded us of blueberries, coconut and ripe fruit. In the mouth, it tasted like a chocolate-covered cherry, all in a velvety texture. This was an elegant wine with a nice finish. "Compared to the others," said one taster. "This was a feminine wine, but a strong woman." This wine ranked second in the tasting.

- 1995 The Barkly Rutherglen Durif at $29.99. This wine was made in a completely different style from the others. It had a relatively orange color, and the aroma offered cloves and black pepper. It had lots of spice on the palate, with side flavors of burnt orange. We detected some brine flavors, but not as much salt as the David Bruce. Spice was still the dominant characteristic of this wine.

- 1999 Marietta Cellars Petite Syrah at $19.99. This wine smelled like blueberry jam and candied fruit. It was smooth and easy to drink, although it had an abundance of tannins. "This is not a first date wine," said one taster. "Wait until you know your date likes strong-willed red wine before you offer this one." Tasters said the Marietta was for people who really know their wines. It ranked first in our tasting, but it may take some getting used to.

- 2002 Bogle Petite Syrah at $11.99. This aroma reminded us of a gamay Beaujolais, full of strawberries and blueberry muffin smells. In the mouth, though, the wine coated the teeth, with the fruit tasting slightly sweet. The texture was soft and silky; the finish returned us to the first impression of gamay. My tasting group commented that this flight of wines was delightful; the prediction was that any of the five would be a delight with rare beef.

Surfing the wine shelves

- 2003 Santi Sortesele Pinot Grigio at $13. Soft and light in aroma and texture, it was crisp, light and clean.

- 2001 Black Opal Barossa Shiraz at $15. Spice and black fruit leapt from the glass to the nose. In the mouth, the wine was very fruity, with nice spice on the end.

- 2001 Smith & Hook Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon at $20. The aroma offered raspberries, currants and hints of cedar. Black, stemmy cherries and blueberries covered the palate, along with hints of cocoa. Serve with a filet.

- 2003 Huntington Sonoma Earthquake Sauvignon Blanc at $14. This unoaked wine smelled of free-cut grass and honeysuckle. The earth did not quake, but the wine was still tasty.

Questions can be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203 or e-mailed to editor