World producers catch on to rose wines

My first taste of wine in my youth was a rose, and it forever left the impression of these wines being very sweet.

Only in my association with the wine-tasting group did I discover that there are some extraordinary rose wines available that are not too sweet but refreshing summer drinks.

European consumers drink dry rose wines regularly. Countries other than France now make rose. The tasters say that a good rose should be slightly chilled, taste refreshing and have a "sexy color."

They expect a floral aroma that is not overpowering.

I asked tasters to sample four rose wines from different parts of the world. Here is how they compared:

-- 2002 Montesierra at $8.99: The aroma was delightful, full of spice, orange and strawberries. The taste was more of briary fruit, accented by a good level of alcohol. It had a very dry finish. This rose finished a strong second in our tasting and was ranked as a good value for $8.99.

-- 2001 El Coto Rioja at $9.99: This Spanish rose had a salmon color and an Old World perfume style aroma. We didn't find as much fruit as we expected, but there was a creamy orange rind taste in the mouth. It, too, was very dry on the end.

-- 2001 Zaca Mesa "Z" Gris at $10.99. This wine had a lighter color and a fresher, cleaner nose than the others. We discovered candied fruit. It tasted more fruity sweet, although it was still dry. It had a pleasant mineral finish.

-- 2001 Chateau Potelle Riviera Rose at $14.99. This wine smelled a lot like a pinot noir, full of cherries and strawberries. In the mouth, it had a smoky flavor. The finish was long. Some tasters expressed confusion that this wine had such strong red wine attributes and yet was still a rose. Nevertheless, the Chateau Potelle finished first in our tasting.

Surfing wine shelves

-- Pommery Brut Rose at $50. This Champagne was one-third chardonnay and two-thirds pinot noir and pinot meunier. The result is a feminine bubbly sure to please the ladies -- and therefore the gentlemen.

-- 2000 Morgan Monterey Syrah at $20. This wine showed spice and oak in the aroma, along with plum, blackberry and other dark fruit.

-- 1998 Kendall-Jackson Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at $49. While 1998 was not a great year in California, Kendall-Jackson used its resources to put together a quality wine, with dense, dark fruit and a soft texture. Drink it now.

-- 2001 Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc at $10. This aroma was full of citrus and grass, with hints of oak. The vanilla from the oak was stronger on the palate. Good value at this price.

-- 2000 Michael Picard Cotes-du-Rhone at $9.99. Spicy and fruity, this wine was full, fresh and easy to drink. Made from grenache and syrah grapes, this wine is ready to drink now.

-- 1999 Bouchaine Gee Vineyard Pinot Noir at $50. The best California pinots come from Carneros as does this wine. Expect an aroma full of smoke, oak, cedar and dark fruit.

-- 2000 Coldstream Hills Chardonnay at $17.50. The aroma showed spices, peach and fig, with a hint of apricot. It was rich and creamy in the mouth.

-- 1999 Frog's Leap Rutherford at $65. This wine was a blend of two-thirds cabernet sauvignon and one-third cabernet franc. That combination produced an elegant but intense wine with lots of dark fruit and plenty of earthy undertones.

-- 2000 Buena Vista Pinot Noir at $22. This aroma showed lots of fresh berries and spice, with hints of oak. In the mouth it showed good balance with a lush texture and a long finish.

Questions can be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203 or e-mailed to editor