Finger Lakes Riesling: a wine with many friends and flavors

Finger Lakes winery owners and area winemakers wanted to meet. Grape growers, wine writers and retailers joined them for a Riesling Retreat.

The Finger Lakes Wine Alliance sponsored the May 17 gathering at Hobart College in Geneva to discuss the future of Riesling in the Finger Lakes.

Thomas Hennick-Kling drew upon his 16 years of work at the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva to answer the question, "Why Riesling in the Finger Lakes?"

First, it's a matter of pride. New York produces some of the best Rieslings in the world.

Second, Riesling has a range of flavors and intensity. It could have tropical fruit tastes such as mangos, stone fruits, peaches or apricots. Or it may be produced with cool mineral tones, reflective of the shale stone that is prominent in some Finger Lakes vineyards.

Third, it can be produced in a range of styles. One may be a very austere, dry dinner wine, while the next may be a more fruity, sweeter, sipping wine.

Thomas went on to explain how temperatures during the growing season affect the flavor of the wine. He said that the wines would be more aromatic during years with a cool fall.

"There is no other white wine that will age as well as Riesling," Thomas said.

Fred Frank, president of Dr. Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars, next offered his insights about growing Riesling grapes in the Finger Lakes.

Fred carries on the grape-growing tradition his grandfather, Dr. Konstantin Frank, pioneered 50 years ago.

Tests showed a certain variety of Riesling grape, Clone 90, provided fewer grapes per acre than several others tested in growing trials in Germany.

That doesn't seem to hold true here, however, where Clone 90 may have a higher than normal yield.

Fred says the alliance is looking for funding to research the finding. If it is true, growers may be inclined to plant specific grape clones. Higher yields would increase revenue for their effort.

Although there is a glut in some parts of the world for certain grape varieties, "there is a definite shortage of Riesling grapes available in the Finger Lakes," said Ray Spencer, vice president of operations for Glenora Wine Cellars.

"My dream, one day, is to see a sea of Riesling along the shores of our lakes," said Peter Bell, winemaker for Fox Run Vineyards in Penn Yan. One of the reasons Peter says it's great to grow Riesling in the Finger Lakes is that you can make great wines at a lower "brix," or level of sugar in the grapes.

In warmer climates, winemakers often need higher brix before they declare the grape mature. Cool fall weather provides an ideal climate in which the grapes can reach a balance between sweetness and maturity.

Acidity, fruit and structure help define how a Riesling will taste. The acid in the wine enhances flavors in food. Riesling's wide fruit-flavor range suggests a wide selection of foods that would pair with your choice.

Riesling can be racy or subtle, according to Dave Whiting, owner of Red Newt Cellars in Hector. He suggested sampling different Rieslings with food. That's what we did after the presentation was finished: sampled Riesling wines from 20 wineries while we dined on strips of beef on a bed of salad.

The flank steak had been marinated with many ingredients, including cilantro, garlic, brown sugar and coriander seeds. It was amazing how different wines complemented certain flavors in the meat.

The Finger Lakes Wine Alliance is just a year old, but the meal highlighted how well wines go with food, especially with Riesling, a very versatile white wine.

Jeff Richards' wine column appears each Thursday on the Twin Tiers Life Food Page. For comments or questions, he can be reached at 607/271-8279 or 800/836-8970, ext. 279, or e-mail: thewineguy