Australia's finer shiraz wines are rich, full of spice

Shiraz is the most widely planted grape in Australia and originally it was mostly used to produce inexpensive wines. But now many of the wineries Down Under have produced truly serious wines that can offer a bargain. A comparable-quality cabernet might cost $10-$20 more.

Good shiraz grapes can produce deep, rich wines, full of spice, herbs, leather and occasionally chocolate. The fruit can be deep and intense and include blackberries and plum.

I asked the wine-tasting group to compare five bottles of Australian shiraz in the $20 price range. Here is what we found:

- Trevor Jones Dry Grown Barossa Shiraz at $29.99. This wine had a deep, dark, heady aroma, full of alcohol. The mint and menthol in the nose was almost dominated by the alcohol. "I got tipsy just smelling it," one taster said. The Trevor Jones had all the hallmarks of an over-the-top, Texas-big shiraz. Every attribute was pushed to the limit.

- 2000 Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz at $20.99. This wine had a smoky aroma along with burnt sugar, almost like a creme brulee. In the mouth, it showed rich, ripe, red fruit. It had lots of layers of complexity that the Trever Jones did not have. Tasters thought the Leasingham would go great with chocolate. It ranked second in our tasting.

- 2001 Mr. Riggs Shiraz at $21.99. We found menthol, cedar and smoke in the nose. In the mouth, the wine was much lighter in texture and not a contender against the other four.

- 2000 Katnook Estate Shiraz at $26.99. This aroma showed citrus such as orange peel and lemon to go with menthol and pepper. The Katnook had a sense of elegance the first three didn't have. The alcohol content was high, but it didn't overwhelm the fruit.

- 2000 William Randell Shiraz at $28.99. Good balance made this wine our favorite of the five. Everything worked in harmony. The aroma contained eucalyptus and peppermint. One taster said the smells reminded him of a peppermint patty. The wine had a soft texture, a lush mouthful that reminded us of dark chocolate.

After the shiraz tasting, I had the opportunity to taste a selection of wines from another Australian label, Wynns Coonawarra Estate. Prices ranges from $12.50 to $50:

- 2002 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay at $12.50. I found oak and vanilla in the aroma with a hint of peaches and pear. In the mouth, fruit dominated the oaking in a creamy texture.

- 2000 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet-Shiraz-Merlot at $12.50. The aroma combined the cabernet's black currants with the shiraz's spiciness. In the mouth, the cabernet flavors dominated.

- 2001 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz at $14. Mellow fruit, pepper and spice appealed from the aroma. The wine had a bit of a bite on the palate.

- 1998 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz at $50. Three years older than the regular shiraz, one sniff tells you why. The complexity of the aroma was followed through on the palate, with lots of layers of spices, red fruit, oak and a bit of earthiness. The velvety texture led to a lingering finish.

Questions can be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203 or e-mailed to editor