Whites from Bordeaux are often overlooked

Americans often miss a dry white wine opportunity at the lower end of the price spectrum: white Bordeaux.

Most wine drinkers have heard of the more famous French wines: reds from Bordeaux or perhaps even the renowned sweet wines of Sauternes.

The dry whites made in Bordeaux are usually from the Graves or Entre-Deux-Mers regions.

Two grapes, sauvignon blanc and semillon, are the most common blends, with the occasional use of muscadelle.

The result of this blending is usually a crisp, dry wine that evokes aromas of figs, flowers, honey and grass. The sauvignon blanc contributes the crispness while the semillon rounds out the wine and can add a rich honey flavor.

The finer white Bordeaux wines improve with age, not normally the case for whites. The more expensive and long-lived white Bordeaux wines can cost $50-$100 or more.

But you can find good, ready-to-drink white Bordeaux in an affordable price range.

These wines can accompany foods you normally associate with whites such as fish or chicken.

I asked the tasters to compare five white Bordeaux wines costing between $10 and $16 in a blind tasting. Here is what we found:

- 2002 Chateau Haut Rian at $12.99. The aroma reminded us of grass and citrus, with some mineral undertones. It was pretty, fresh and clear. It had a persistent finish. This wine finished first in our tasting.

- 2001 Lafite Barons de Rothschild Bordeaux Reserve Speciale at $12.99. This wine, bearing one of the famous Bordeaux names, had a nice honey-filled aroma. It showed a lot less acidity than the Haut Rian, resulting in a wine that tasted too creamy (flabby).

- 2002 Domaine Sainte-Anne Bordeaux at $15.99. The aroma was completely different from the others, showing pineapple, tropical fruit and toasted coconut. In the mouth, it had a slight bitterness and more mineral tastes than the others. The finish was nice.

- 2002 Mission St. Vincent Bordeaux at $10.99. This wine had a chalky aroma with a grassiness and iodine hints that reminded some of my experts of a Sancerre (where they make great sauvignon blanc). The fruit was plentiful and intense, especially grapefruit. The Mission St. Vincent finished third in our tasting.

- 2002 Chateau les Tuileries Bordeaux at $9.99. This aroma reminded us of gardenias and honeysuckle vines, fresh and appealing. It had a delicate, light body, almost thin, but there were lots of layers of flavors on the palate. The acidity was a bit low, when compared to the Haut Rian. This wine finished second in our tasting.

Questions can be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203 or e-mailed to editor