Glut of good chardonnay is good news for consumers

In the California vintage years of 2000 and 2001, winemakers had too much "good juice" for making chardonnay wines.

In every vintage year, the best grapes and the best wines go first into the more expensive chardonnay lines, then the remaining juice is used for less expensive chardonnay. In the '90s, there was over planting of chardonnay grapes and, for these two vintages, there was plenty of excellent juice left after the expensive wines got what they needed.

On top of this, competition from other countries has forced California producers to keep their prices low. And chardonnay drinkers have been experimenting with other kinds of white wines.

All of these factors together mean you can find higher quality chardonnay in less expensive bottles.

So the wine-tasting group compared five chardonnays costing under $10. Here is what we found in good values in our blind tasting:

- 2000 Van Ruiten-Taylor Reserve Chardonnay at $9.99. This wine had aromas of melon, pear and spice, as in spiced tea. Oak overtones added to its luster. These characteristics carried through onto the palate until the finish, when the taste turned older and more earthy.

- 2001 Stone Cellars Chardonnay at $7.99. This wine by Beringer had a much prettier nose than the others. It was complex, with aromas of ripe tropical fruit. In the mouth, it was well balanced, with distinct pineapple flavors. It had a nice finish. This was the clear favorite of the group.

- 2001 Blackstone Chardonnay at $9.99. This was a lighter style wine, with aromas of candied fruit. In the mouth, it was far more delicate than the others, a simpler wine that still had decent acids. This wine tied for second in the tasting.

- 2001 Forest Glen Chardonnay at $8.99. While the Blackstone was delicate, this wine showed off its oaking, with lots of vanilla and butterscotch tastes. "If you like oak and butter, this wine is it," said one taster. "This wine reflects more of the 1990s style of California chardonnay making, yet the fruit still comes through." The Forest Glen tied for second.

- 2000 Pepperwood Grove Chardonnay at $7.99. This wine was completely different from the others. The aroma showed apricots and olives. In the mouth, it tasted juicy but in a simple structure. The finish was thin.

Surfing the wine shelves

- 2002 Lindemans Reserve Chardonnay at $9.99. A value-priced chardonnay, this wine had a soft texture with peach, pear and melon flavors.

- 2001 Lindemans Reserve Merlot at $9.99. Plums, spices, vanilla and mint dominate the aroma with a slight bit of oak.

- 2001 Lindemans Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve at $9.99. The aroma showed dark fruit, cedar and cigar. In the mouth, the wine was light in style for a cabernet. Tobacco appeared on the finish.

- 2001 Turning Leaf Coastal Reserve Pinot Noir At $10. Cherries dominate the aroma with some strawberry. On the palate, the wine was off-balance, with a thin finish.

- 2001 Marques de Casa Concha Merlot at $14. Black cherries and other dark berries fill the aroma. Bigger than most merlots in this price range, it would be great with lamb.

- 2000 Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon at $27. This complex wine had a nice aroma of dark fruit, floral notes and a touch of oak. On the palate we detected cedar, tobacco, some smokiness.

Questions can be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203 or e-mailed to editor