Rich, intense Chateauneuf du Pape goes well with beef

Before Americans discovered cabernet sauvignon with their steaks, there was Chateauneuf du Pape.

Granted that was many years ago, but the appeal of Chateauneuf du Pape still remains among those people who know the wine. Cabernet sauvignon has been made in many different countries while Chateauneuf du Pape comes only from the area around the Rhone Valley village (Chateauneuf) in France, for which it is partially named. (Du Pape, meaning "of the Pope," refers to the wine's origin as coming from the Chateauneuf vineyard owned by Pope Clement V in the 14th century.)

Chateauneuf du Pape was the first French wine to adopt strict rules for the growing of grapes in the early 20th century. As many as 13 different grapes are used in these wines, but the three most often used are grenache, syrah and mourvedre.

Chateauneuf du Pape wines are intense and rich, like the biggest cabernets, and they go well with good beef. Tasters often find floral notes, pepper, spice and a certain toastiness in a Chateauneuf du Pape. It usually will not have the strong tannins of a cabernet sauvignon.

Tannins are chemicals that give wine structure over time, but in their youth can make your mouth pucker. Despite having fewer tannins, Chateauneuf du Pape still can age up to 15 or 20 years.

Most Chateauneuf-du-Pape bottles cost in the $25-$40 range, but some of the very best will top $50.

I asked the wine-tasting group to compare five Chateauneuf du Pape bottles. Here is what we found:

- 2000 Les Closiers Chateauneuf du Pape at $25.99. The aroma was of cooked fruit. In the mouth, we tasted cooked butter, spices and pepper plus dark fruit and orange peel. It had a nice acidity.

- 2000 Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf du Pape at $39.99. The smell reminded us of roses and cream. This was a fresh wine, extremely well-balanced. It had a medium body with good tannins and a lush texture. "You can almost taste the rose petal," one of the tasters said.

This wine finished third in our tasting.

- 2000 Louis Bernard Chateauneuf du Pape at $29.99. Aromas of sun-dried figs and leather emerged from the glass, along with candied apples, raw meat and white pepper. In the mouth, the tannins were ahead of the fruit (prunes), meaning this wine needed either rare beef or some aging.

- 2000 Chateau de la Gardine Chateauneuf du Pape at $39.99. This wine smelled sweet, like a black cherry cream soda. It was made in a New World style, meaning lots of fruit make a dominant impression right away. White pepper and spice tastes followed the fruit. This wine finished second in the tasting.

- 2001 E. Guigal Chateauneuf du Pape at $46.99. A famous name in the Rhone Valley, this wine lived up to its price. It was our favorite in the tasting. The aromas included currants, menthol and pleasant hints of iodine. Several layers of flavors cascaded over the tongue, with a light but nice texture and good acidity.

Surfing the wine shelves:

- 2002 Woodbridge Chardonnay at $8. Light flavors of green apples, pineapples and citrus fruits emerged from this easy-to-drink wine.

- 2001 Carpe Diem Pinot Noir at $31. A pretty wine with an aroma of red cherries, spice and earthiness. These flavors opened on the taste buds the longer it was in the glass. It ended in a long, smooth finish. Serve it with game, grilled seafood and cheese.

- 2000 EXP Syrah at $14. This wine had an aroma of spice and cherries. The taste of pepper, cherry and raspberry emerged on the palate.

- 2002 Sanford Pinot Noir-Vin Gris at $14. This pale pink wine gave the impression of sweet strawberries and raspberries in the aroma. In the mouth, the taste of ripe fruit led to an elegant dry, well-balanced wine with tart fruit and a hint of vanilla on the end.

Questions may be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville 37203, or e-mailed to editor@tennessean.com..