Vertical tasting at Hazlitt's 1852 Vineyards puts cabernet franc to the test

What is cabernet franc's future in the Finger Lakes? That's what Mike Sutterby, winemaker for Hazlitt's 1852 Vineyards in Hector, wanted to discuss on May 7. He invited a panel of wine tasters to Hazlitt's to sample a vertical flight of the winery's cabernet franc, 1996 to 2002 vintages.

The group consisted of individuals involved in various aspects of the wine business: winemakers, winery owners, judges, retailers and writers. The wine glasses for participants were arranged in a semicircle, arcing across each place setting and inviting the guests to sample seven vintages of wine.

It was interesting to hear how quiet it became as individuals began checking out the wines. We looked at the color, checked the nose and tasted each wine while jotting down our impressions throughout the process.

After everyone had made his or her assessments, it was time for a lively group discussion.

Although the 1996 wine was starting to turn a little brown, instead of a bright, deep red, it still retained some taste of cherry and oak. Comments from other panel members said it had tastes of brown sugar, raisins or dirt.

It was also classified as "soft" on the palette. All agreed that it had passed its prime and that the brownish tinge was caused by oxidation. Mike told us that this wine was from young vines and had been produced during a challenging harvest season.

It was time to move on to the 1997 vintage.

"I applaud your judicious use of oak," said Jim Trezise, executive director of the New York Wine and Grape Foundation. This wine was much brighter in color with some tannin. Others described it as food-friendly, with a light persimmon taste.

"After 1997, I wasn't sure if cabernet franc was for the Finger Lakes. It is only in the last few years that I have come to appreciate it," Mike says.

During the discussion, Jim congratulated winemaker Chris Stamp of Lakewood Vineyards in Watkins Glen, on earning a gold medal for their 2001 Cabernet Franc.

Jim had recently returned from the Riverside (Calif.) International Wine Competition, where he had been a judge.

It was surprising good news for Chris and his wife Liz Stamp, both of whom participated on the panel. They hadn't yet heard about their latest gold medal.

The 1998 Cabernet Franc had bright, fruity flavor. I was amazed throughout the afternoon by the variety of words used by the panelists to help pinpoint flavors.

The 1998 Cabernet Franc had "the flavor of menthol" according to one panelist. The 1999 wine was characterized as having the tastes of blackberries, spice and currants.

The 2000 was described as "a vibrant wine with soft tannins" and "peppery." Tasters used the terms "tart cranberry" and "bacon fat" to describe some of the flavors in the rich 2001 Cabernet Franc, still a young wine according to Mike.

The 2002 Cabernet Franc has not yet been bottled. The tank sample tasted tannic and smoky. Chris commented that it had gobs of fruit. Ray Pompilio, a former Ithaca Journal photojournalist who turned to wine judging and a wine accessory business many years ago, said it tasted of mushrooms and mint.

Listening to the mix of people who participated in the winetasting reinforced to me how much more I can learn. Yet, regardless of expertise, everyone in the group felt that cabernet franc definitely has a place in the Finger Lakes.

Jeff Richards' wine column appears each Thursday on the Twin Tiers Life Food Page. For comments or questions, he can be reached at 607/271-8279 or 800/836-8970, ext. 279, or e-mail: thewineguy