Just A Taste
Frank Sutherland's wine column for Thursday 5/15/03
Catch good American 'cab' for $10 or less
Wine column by FRANK SUTHERLAND
Gannett News Service
Some good news about wine prices:
Because of an abundance of supply and increased competition, prices are beginning to drop for many American wines compared with previous years.
Demand for wine has been so high that prices of California wines rose at breathtaking rates in recent years.
That demand brought more imports into this country. The main competition has come from South America, Australia and New Zealand, forcing some U.S. wine makers to re-evaluate their pricing structure.
The good news for you is that you can get better wines at that once-magic threshold of $10.
I asked the wine-tasting group to compare five cabernet sauvignons costing less than $10.
The tasters found substantial differences among the cabernets in this price group. Here are our findings:
-- 2000 Canyon Road Cabernet Sauvignon at $9.99. This is Geyser Peak's second label, and it has done quite well in my area. The aroma was spicy with hints of black tar. In the mouth, the fruit was sweet and tart at the same time; the dominant taste was sun-dried prunes (as opposed to bright fruit). The wine was well balanced, but it had a short finish.
- 2000 R.H. Phillips Cabernet Sauvignon at $9.99. This wine tasted like a classic cabernet, with original potpourri flavors. We discovered good fruit, cedar and pepper. The finish was pleasant but short. My experts said this wine would be a "people pleaser" -- easy to drink, especially for people who are not regular wine drinkers. In other words, it would be a good party red.
- 2000 Butterfield Station Cabernet Sauvignon at $6.99. The pleasant aroma smelled of charred wood and burnt cherry. The wine was really dark but really soft. The texture was soft enough to offer to a beginner.
- 2000 Smoking Loon Cabernet Sauvignon at $9.99. This wine had a caramelized nose with more oak than the others. The aroma showed dark fruit, like blackberries. In the mouth, we found ripe, jammy fruit tastes, all in a rich texture. This wine was slightly sour on the finish. This wine finished second in our tasting.
- 2000 Bandiera Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon at $9.99. This wine clearly was my tasters' favorite. It had aromas of anise, tarragon and licorice. In the mouth, the wine turned rich and fruity, with the taste of raspberries. By far, it had the biggest finish of the five.
Surfing the wine shelves:
- 2001 Freemark Abbey Chardonnay at $19. A traditional California chardonnay, this wine had a multitude of flavors -- peaches, pears and citrus fruits. Vanilla from the oak enhanced a lingering finish.
- 2000 Freemark Abbey Viognier at $20. Bright and fresh, this wine was creamy in the mouth with lots of fruit and spice.
- 2002 The Crossings Sauvignon Blanc at $15.99. This New Zealand wine tasted young and refreshing, with citrus fruit and herbs. The palate was creamy and honeyed.
Questions can be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203 or e-mailed to editor
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