Rose by any other name is a blush

My first memories of rose wines come from my earliest wine-drinking days -- testing sweet, inexpensive wines that lacked character and body but not sugar.

I had to be educated much later in life about the existence of more sophisticated roses.

Rose is the French word for pink. Rose is made from red grapes, but the skins are removed very early in the wine-making process, resulting in just a light pink color. That also accounts for the lighter body of most roses.

In the United States and some other countries, rose wines are often called "blush."

Rose, however is usually served more chilled, is drunk as a summer sipping wine or accompanies foods such as creamy pasta sauces or even duck.

I asked the wine-tasting group to compare five European roses.

Here is what we found:

- 2003 Montessiera Rosado at $10.99. This wine's aroma reminded us of peppermint cream and candied strawberries. The color was very light red. In the mouth, it was lively and dry, good enough to be a companion to duck, tasters said. It finished second in the tasting.

- 2002 Les Domaniers Rose at $14.99. The color of this wine was almost white, and we smelled aromas of green apples, canned peaches and a little mustiness. In the mouth, it was crisp and dry but had little fruit.

- 2002 Chateau d'Aqueria Tavel Rose at $14.99. Tavel is one of the most famous makers of French rose. This wine had aromas of caramelized apples and butterscotch. It had a lighter texture, and the fruit faded quickly in the mouth. Tasters thought this wine would be better with food such as a cream sauce over pasta.

- 2002 El Coto Rioja Rosado at $9.99. This Spanish rose had an interesting aroma of melons, strawberries and a hint of yeast. On the palate, it had a light texture, with a taste of raspberries. It had good fruit at the beginning, then nice acids bit in. Tasters thought this would be a nice summer wine with cucumber sandwiches. It ranked first in our tasting.

- 2002 Marques de Caceres at $8.99. We smelled dried fruit in this aroma, mostly dried peaches and apricot. There was also a bit of sulfur that eventually went away. The fruit faded on the palate, leaving a nice acidity.

Surfing the shelves:

- 2003 Kathy Lynskey Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc at $19. This was clean and crisp. We tasted grapefruit, lime and apples. It had a lively body.

- 2002 Hahn Montery Chardonnay at $14. Lots of ripe tropical fruit dominated the aroma, along with considerable oak. On the palate, it showed melon, vanilla and toast.

- 2001 Frog's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon at $35. Dark fruit including black berries and black currants filled the lively aroma of this traditional cabernet. It had a lush texture and nice balance.

- 2002 Pepi Oregon Pinot Grigio at $12.99. This wine had a floral aroma, especially violets, along with hints of honeydew melon. Its crispness on the finish would make it a good food wine.

- 2001 Shafer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at $52. Black fruit including blackberries and cassis dominated this aroma. In the mouth, the fruit was lively, with hints of vanilla and spice.

- 2003 Cecchi Orvieto Classico at $10.99. Hints of apple and apricot floated across the tongue in what would best be described as a crisp, dry white table wine. This wine would be better enjoyed with food -- perhaps herb-grilled fish or chicken -- it didn't stand up on its own.

Questions may be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville 37203, or e-mailed to editor@tennessean.com..