Demystifying levels of sulfites in imported wines

Here is one example:

"I recently returned from a vacation in Italy and discovered that the wine there does not have the sulfites that seem to be present in the wines we are able to purchase in the states.

"I was hoping that you might be able to help me find out where I would be able to buy imported wine without the sulfites. I was able to buy cabernets in Amalfi for just 6 euros per bottle, and I didn't have a headache the next day. Any information you could give me would be very helpful. Thank you."

The first answer I give is that I am not a doctor and do not give medical advice. Secondly, I tell people that it is very hard to find wine without any sulfites. Sulfites are the salt of sulfuric acid. The presence of sulfites means sulfur dioxide was introduced to the wine at some point(s).

Sulfite deposits can come from sprays used to protect the grapes from disease and from various steps in the wine-making process. If the resulting wine has more than 10 parts per thousand, the label has to include the phrase, "contains sulfites." Someone determined that amount was a threshold for people worried about sulfites.

I asked a member of the wine-tasting group, Elise Loehr Solima, to explain further the sulfite issue:

"Sulfites are a necessary part of the wine-making process. All wines carry a certain amount of sulfites, due to the natural by-product of fermentation (yeast reaction). But in order to stabilize a wine, especially for shipment and longer-term drinkability, most winemakers add sulfites.

"The added sulfites work in two ways: inhibiting microbial action and also by binding to oxygen molecules, preventing oxidation and oxidative characteristics.

"Many wines in other parts of the world have no addition of sulfites for the mere fact that they will not be made to export or for long-term aging. Obviously, there is a cost factor in every step of the wine-making process, so the 'little guy' saves money by not having to add sulfites. Unfortunately for people who are asthmatic or suffer from severe allergies, these sulfites are problematic. For the rest of us ... 'hallelujah,' as this process allows us to drink some of the best wines in the world."

"Tell your reader to particularly avoid sweet, dessert-style wines, as these tend to be the highest in sulfites."

Of course, not all headaches result from sulfites. Some are related to a reaction to alcohol.

Surfing the wine shelves

-- 2000 Lambert Bridge Sonoma County Merlot at $24. The aroma showed tobacco, spice and bright red fruit. We detected plum on the palate with more spice and plenty of tannins for a merlot. This wine could stand up well to rare lamb.

-- 2001 Cuvaison Napa Valley Carneros Chardonnay at $22. The aroma showed honeydew melon and citrus fruit. In the mouth, we tasted peaches, honey, mocha and oak. This was a well-balanced, complex wine.

-- 1999 Cuvaison Cabernet Sauvignon at $40. Chocolate, coffee and black cherries filled the aroma, along with clove and other spices. In the mouth, the texture was velvety, with tastes of bright cherry and dark fruits and good tannins. The finish was long. Cuvaison recommended cellaring this wine for seven to 15 years.

-- 2001 Beringer Founders Estate Chardonnay at $12. A good all-purpose chardonnay, this wine's aroma showed pineapples and tropical fruits. In the mouth, it had more traditional green apple and pear flavors.

-- 2001 Forest Glen Oak Barrel Selection Merlot at $10. This merlot presents dark fruit in an easy-drinking format that few can object to. It's a good holiday party selection at this price.

-- 2001 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Pinot Noir at $13. Cherries and raspberries highlighted this wine's aroma, and we tasted oak and some spice on the palate. This was a good pinot for this price.

Questions may be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville 37203, or e-mailed to editor@tennessean.com..