Tart chardonnay pairs well with grilled chicken

One of the quickest, easiest meals to make involves rubbing skinless chicken breasts with garlic and pepper and then grilling them until lightly brown.

Choosing a wine to go with grilled chicken can be a challenge. I usually pick a sauvignon blanc, that most versatile of white wines, but sauvignon blanc often is overwhelmed by the smoky flavors from the grilling.

I asked the wine-tasting group to compare five wines, first without the food and then with grilled chicken. Here are our findings:

- 2003 Glen Carlou Chardonnay at $13.99. The aroma suggested apples, pear, fresh wood and sweet pineapples. In the mouth, it had a rich, smooth taste with hints of baked pineapple. The finish was smoky. The smokiness in the wine enhanced the flavor of the chicken, making it a perfect marriage with the grilled tastes of the chicken, tasters said. The chicken balanced the tartness of the wine, and the wine was great for the texture of the chicken. The group ranked this wine the best with the food.

- 2003 Edna Valley Chardonnay at $16.99. The aroma reminded us of hops, lemon, lime and carnations and other floral notes. The lemon-lime flavors carried on to the palate, with subtle peach flavors on the finish. While the Edna Valley was nice to drink by itself, it was overpowered somewhat by the chicken.

- 2002 Hayman & Hill Reserve Selection Chardonnay at $15.99. This wine had an earthy but very floral aroma of roses and white truffles. It was fresh, bright and clean -- a "happy sipping wine," one taster said. With the chicken, the wine became more floral tasting and enhanced the heat and pepper in the food.

- 2002 Weingut Johann Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling-Spatlese at $19.99. This wine had aromas of gooseberries, apples and petrol. In the mouth, it was almost spritzy and fruity sweet, with hints of green apples and kiwi. This was our favorite without the food. This wine and the food were not a good match at all. This wine was just too sweet.

- 2003 Burgans Albarino at $15.99. This Spanish wine had a stony, chalky aroma with notes of sour fruit and honeysuckle. The taste reminded us of wet stone -- clean with nice acids. The finish was slightly salty. With the food, the distinct tastes seemed to disappear. The flavors seemed to meld together "into nothingness," one taster said.

In this tasting, the tart chardonnays seemed to fare better than sweeter wines in dealing with the grilling of the chicken. The Glen Carlou was the overwhelming favorite.

Questions can be sent to Frank Sutherland, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203 or e-mailed to fsutherland