French adapt white Burgundy to American tastes

Burgundy, one of France's most famous wine regions, is known primarily for three grapes -- pinot noir and gamay, both reds, and the white grape, chardonnay.

But white Burgundy wines rarely taste like the California chardonnays most Americans drink. A white Burgundy depends more on stainless steel barrels than oak, on finesse rather than powerful fruit, balance rather than boldness.

White Burgundy wines can be better pairings with food, while California chardonnays tend to be more for drinking at home before dinner. In order to appeal to American tastes, some Burgundy producers have begun recently to make more California-style wines.

I asked the wine-tasting group to sample five white Burgundy wines in a blind tasting. Here are the results:

- 2001 Louis Jadot Saint-Veran (white Burgundy) at $16.99. Louis Jadot is a widely distributed brand in this country. The aroma was full of green apples, much like a domestic chardonnay, but in the mouth it was more French style with a slight mineral taste. It was clean and crisp on the finish. This was a straightforward wine that would not offend those beginning to experiment with white Burgundies.

- 2000 Guy Bocard Bourgogne at $16.99. The nose was full of spice, particularly clove and white pepper. The clove carried all the way through to the finish. The wine had nice acids, with a slight bitterness on the finish. It finished second in our tasting.

- 2000 Chartron et Trebuchet at $14.99. This wine had a toasty, apple aroma with lots of lemon and other citrus. The citrus went from beginning to end. In the mouth, the wine was creamy, full-bodied and well balanced. It had a lingering finish. This was our favorite of the five.

- 1999 Domaine Valette Macon-Chaintre at $18.99. This wine had the darkest color of the five. The aroma first offered a sulfur smell that gave way to melon and butterscotch. We had to fight the sulfur to get to the many delights of this wine. Its texture was viscous and the finish clean. This wine would be better with food.

- 2001 "Les Setilles" Olivier Leflaivre at $13.99. This wine had candied-fruit aroma, but in the mouth, it was drier than the nose indicated. It was light-bodied and had a slightly astringent finish.

Surfing the wine shelves

- 1999 Glass Mountain Quarry Syrah at $11.99. The aromas promised plum, but the taste moved on to brambly blackberries and spice. It had some tannins, but the finish was short.

- 1999 Glass Mountain Quarry Cabernet Sauvignon at $11.99. The aromas of this wine indicated spicy cherry with hints of mint, cedar and cranberry. It had a light body with flavors of plum and blackberry that did not linger on the palate.

- 2000 Sebastiani Zinfandel, Sonoma County Selection at $15. The nose picked up aromas of raspberries. In the mouth, jammy raspberries and spice flavors wrapped the tongue in this medium-bodied wine. Overall, it was fruity and easy to drink, with modest tannins on the finish.

- 2000 Barnwood Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon at $22. This wine showed aromas of blackberry and spice. In the mouth, lush, ripe plum flavors dominated the taste. It was backed by hints of wood and cassis. It had mild tannins, with soft vanilla flavors lingering on the finish.

Questions can be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203 or e-mailed to editor