Robust reds with robust prices

Every once in a while I get a craving for a great big red wine.

An inky monster.

Full-bodied.

A wine with backbone.

Normally, when I think of robust red, I consider a cabernet sauvignon. But there are other choices to make, especially when I am feasting on a hearty winter meal.

I asked the wine-tasting group to compare, in a blind sampling, five monster reds, pricey, but all worth trying:

- 1999 William Randell Shiraz at $28.99. This wine had a big, silky nose, full of cedar, plum and menthol. In the mouth, we tasted vanilla with the American oak. "Someone took the word 'monster' seriously," said one taster, relishing the full body. The tannins were also well managed. (Tannins are the chemicals in wine that give it structure but can be harsh when too plentiful or young.) The cedar appeared again on the finish. The group liked this wine a lot, voting it second favorite in the tasting.

- 1999 Woodward Canyon Artist Series No. 8 Cabernet Sauvignon at $44.90. The aroma was full of orange peel, cinnamon and a dusty earthiness. This wine was bigger, with more structure and complexity but less body than the William Randell. The Woodward Canyon had great balance and harmony. It was the favorite. For those interested, this bottle comes with a most attractive artist series label.

- 2001 Henry's Drive Shiraz at $32.99. This wine showed many layers of flavors, including black licorice, coffee, black cherry, raisin and vanilla cream. The texture was soft and smooth. The finish, unfortunately, was shorter than the others.

- 1999 Stag's Leap Cellars Petite Syrah at $34.99. This wine's aroma was more Old World-style than the others, meaning an emphasis on earthy or musty flavors rather than on fruit. The nose showed smoke and green peppers. In the mouth, though, it was very California, full of fruit, alcohol and strong tannins. It probably could profit from some aging.

- 1999 Cornerstone Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon at $52.99. This wine had an entirely different aroma, full of chocolate, cocoa and marshmallow. But the chocolate was strongest. "That's chocolate all right," one taster said. "I have had candy bars with less chocolate than that."

Surfing the wine shelves

- 1998 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Merlot at $25.99 The aroma of this wine held the promise of bright cherry and plum flavors along with a bit of pleasant earthiness. In the mouth, however, pepper dominated the taste, and the taste of alcohol overwhelmed the fruit. It had a light body and a short finish.

- 2001 Fontana Candida Frascati at $7.99. Light and refreshing, this fruity white wine was an easy quaffing wine for lovers of delicate wines with floral aromas.

Questions can be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203 or e-mailed to editor