Trying Traminette: Grape earns esteem

A relatively new white grape is gaining popularity in the Finger Lakes.

JEFF RICHARDS/Star-Gazette John Brahm III, of Arbor Hill Winery in Bristol Springs, has developed three styles of wine using the Traminette grape

The development of the Traminette grape in New York goes back to 1968. According to a 1996 New York Food and Life Sciences Bulletin published by Cornell University, that was the first year that the seed was planted by researchers from the university's grape- breeding program.

In 1965, H.C. Barrett, a researcher at the University of Illinois, successfully crossed the grape varieties Joannes Seyve 23.416 and Gewurztraminer. His intent was to create table grapes with a spicy Gewurztraminer flavor.

Seeds were sent to the grape-breeding program at Cornell and the development of the new grape continued. Researchers observed fruit in 1971 and were able to propagate an original vine in 1974.

John Brahm III, winemaker at Arbor Hill Winery in Briston Springs, is one of the area growers thanked at the conclusion of the bulletin for his extensive field trials with the grape variety that would eventually be named Traminette.

"I felt that it had the same potential for the Finger Lakes as Riesling," John says. "It has so much nice fruit flavor to create wines that cover a wide spectrum, from dry to sweet."

I first called John after learning that his Arbor Hill Traminette was one of five Finger Lakes wines to reach the Sweepstakes level in the Jefferson Cup Competition in December.

It was not until I had a chance to meet him this month that I learned how involved he was in the development of this new grape variety.

When it was named Traminette in 1996, John was able to get label approval for a 1994 vintage Traminette wine. Before the variety was named, winemakers used the research number NY65.533.13 to identify it.

Arbor Hill Winery's Classic Traminette is a blend of the 2001 and 2002 vintages. It has lots of fruit and spice flavors. It is a full-bodied, mellow glass of wine. A 2002 vintage will be released soon, John says.

John also offers sweeter and drier versions of wine made from the Traminette grape. Ambrosia was introduced in November 2001. It is a sweet, late-harvest wine that has been fortified with grape brandy. It has a fruity nose that even smells sweet. Spicy flavors mingle with peach and apricot flavors.

In April, John introduced his 2002 Dry Traminette. It has a much sharper edge with a drier, spicy taste.

One of the benefits of growing Traminette in the Finger Lakes may be the vines' ability to cope with severe winters. According to the bulletin covering the Traminette development, the grape is considerably hardier than Gewurztraminer.

Some other wineries are exploring the potential for Traminette wines throughout the Finger Lakes. Amberg (near Geneva), Fulkerson (south of Dundee), Goose Watch (Romulus) and Catharine Valley (Burdett) each offer a version of Traminette wine.

"Here I am, 18 to 19 years later. and my vision has been realized, to make dry, semi-dry and sweet Traminette award-winning wines," John says. With the severe weather damage that vinifera vines suffered this winter, perhaps Traminette vines will soon find more fans.

Jeff Richards' wine column appears Saturdays.