In appreciation of underappreciated sherry

Sherry is something I always associated with my grandmother and her friends of advancing age.

Because so many people share similar perceptions, sherry is one of the most unappreciated wines in this country.

In Europe, though, wine drinkers appreciate that sherry comes in many styles, dry and sweet.

There are two main classes of sherry -- fino, which is delicate and with less alcohol, and oloroso, which has a fuller body and more alcohol.

Each of those types has many subtypes that are worth exploring. Today's column explores a popular style called cream sherry, which is a rich, sweetened version of an oloroso. These wines often have a rich, almost molasses-type taste with hints of nuttiness.

I asked my wine-tasting group to compare five in this category. Here is what we found:

- Lustau Solera Superior Rare Cream Sherry NV at $18.99. This sherry had a rich color and lots of alcohol in the intense aroma. In the mouth, the molasses taste dominated through to the finish. The texture was creamy and the sweetness was well balanced. We tasted walnuts and hints of orange on the finish. The Lustau finished a close second in our tasting.

- Sanchez Romate Cream Sherry NV at $10.99. This wine had an aroma full of orange, cream bananas and butter. In the mouth, it had more acid than the Lustau. The Romate had a much lighter body, but it was sweeter.

- Wisdom & Warter Delicate Cream Sherry at $9.99. This aroma reminded some of us of orange marshmallow candy and circus peanuts. Others labeled it candied corn and tea. The finish showed almonds, but it was relatively short.

- Sheffield Cellars Cream Sherry at $5.99. This California wine offered the aroma of fresh-cut pumpkins, accompanied by a lot of alcohol. We detected some acetone (like fingernail polish). It was light on the palate with walnut flavors on the finish.

- Sandeman Armada Cream Sherry at $15.99. The aroma reminded us of pancake syrup. In the mouth, this sherry was lively and acidic, balanced and not too thick. It had a great, long, long finish with notes of orange. The Sandeman finished first in our tasting.

Surfing the wine shelves for values:

- 2002 Chateau St. Jean Sonoma County Pinot Noir at $19. The aroma offered plum and black fruit with bits of spice. In the mouth, it was light-to-medium bodied with notes of wood and cherries.

- 2001 Chateau St. Jean Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon at $27. We smelled chocolate, currants, black fruit in a dense, smoky aroma. The body was full with lots of tannins, which should soften in a year or two.

- 2002 Beringer Founders' Estate Sauvignon Blanc at $11. Not as smoky as in years past -- the wine maker says that was on purpose -- this wine was crisp and clean.

- 2000 Lake Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon at $22. We tasted currants, black fruit and hints of cedar. It had a full body. Drinkable now with a rare steak, it should be better in a couple of years.

- 2000 Altamura Cabernet Sauvignon at $60. This was a most intense wine, full of dark fruit and chocolate in a velvety texture. In the palate, the complexity showed in layer after layer cascading across the tongue.

- 2001 Montevina Barbera at $10.99. Red cherries and spice dominated the aroma and carried into the mouth of this Italian red wine. The body was relatively creamy and lacked acidity. Drink this with pasta and red sauce.

- 2001 Montevina Terra d'Oro Zinfandel at $14.99. The cherries exploded through the aroma and into the mouth, accompanied by plums and plenty of spice. Perfect for a pizza.

Questions can be sent to Frank Sutherland, editor, The Tennessean, 1100 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203 or e-mailed to editor