Area cabernet franc wines are earning golden reputation

Cabernet franc wine is finding a home in the Finger Lakes.

JEFF RICHARDS/Star-Gazette Dr. Konstantin Frank's 2001 Cabernet Franc is an excellent example of a quality cabernet franc being produced in the Finger Lakes

During the Wine on Ice event Jan 24 at the First Arena in downtown Elmira, I was able to taste great cabernet franc wines from several wineries throughout the region.

Hosmer Winery in Ovid is now pouring its 2002 version. Fruit flavors of plum and cherry in the wine are complemented with a light taste of black pepper and vanilla. Soft tannins add to the mouth feel of the wine.

Hosmer Winery has earned gold medals for its cabernet franc wine each year from 1998 through 2001. The 2001 vintage earned a double gold and was voted the best cabernet franc and best overall red wine at a New York Wine & Food Classic competition.

Although the 2002 vintage has only been out a short time, it is expected to show well when it is entered in competitions this year.

Standing Stone Vineyards, on the east side of Seneca Lake in Lodi, is also pouring its 2002 cabernet franc wine. It has cranberry and raspberry fruit flavors mixed with a taste of chocolate. Standing Stone has also earned awards for its cabernet franc. In addition to earning gold medals for its 1996 and 1998 cabernet francs, Standing Stone earned a double gold and the Governor's Cup for its 1994 vintage at a New York Wine & Food Classic.

Lakewood Vineyards, on the west side of Seneca just north of Watkins Glen, is pouring its 2001 cabernet franc wine. Lakewood winemaker Chris Stamp learned that his wine had just earned a gold medal last April as we were sitting down to a vertical tasting for seven successive vintages of Hazlitt's 1852 Vineyards cabernet franc.

Jim Trezise, president of the New York Wine and Grape Foundation, had just returned from judging at the Riverside International competition and was able to pass along the good news.

The Lakewood 2001 Cabernet Franc went on to earn a double gold medal at the New York Wine & Food Classic. It has a taste of blackberry and cocoa. The wine also has a smoky oak flavor that adds to the complexity of the wine's taste and finish.

Dr. Konstantin Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars is on the west side of Keuka Lake just north of Hammondsport. They are pouring their 2001 cabernet franc wine. It also earned gold medals in competitions last year. It turned out to be the favorite cabernet franc for our small group that tagged along together during the Wine on Ice event.

It is a rich wine with a full, almost chewy texture. The taste of cherry is unmistakable, mixing with a nice amount of oak. The wine has a clean cherry finish. The wine does still have some tannins that will soften over time if you are disciplined enough to set some down and not drink it all right away.

The variety of flavors and range of locations speaks well to the future growth of cabernet franc in the Finger Lakes.

Last year, I asked Scott Osborn, president of Fox Run Vineyards, what grapes he would recommend if someone had 10 good acres of land for a vineyard. Without hesitation, he responded "Riesling and cabernet franc."

One, to build on the reputation already established for the white Riesling grape; the other looking to the future for what may become a signature red wine for the Finger Lakes.

The flavors may vary throughout the region, but they are all great wines.

Jeff Richards' wine column appears Saturdays. For comments or questions, he can be reached at 607/271-8279 or 800/836-8970, ext. 279, or e-mail: jrichards