Hit Oregon trail with a trial run of pinot gris

Chances are you are familiar with the pinot gris grape, even though the name doesn't quite sound familiar.

More people today know the Italian version -- pinot grigio.

While pinot grigio is best known as very light and crisp wines, pinot gris in other growing areas can be light to full-bodied and very aromatic.

An area where pinto gris has been particularly successful is Oregon. Pinot gris made its major debut in the states Willamette River Valley. In the state, only pinot noir is more widely planted.

Oregon pinot gris is often darker in color than other white wines, ranging from grayish blue to brownish pink. It also offers a wide range of aromas, most commonly varying from soft, perfumy floral notes to stone fruits and mineral qualities.

The wine-tasting group compared five Oregon pinot gris bottles in a blind tasting. Here is what we found:

- 2003 Montinore Pinot Gris at $11.99. This wine had a pink tint to it, and its aromas suggested cantaloupe, honeydew, lime and orange peel. We found nice acids in the mouth that gave the wine a very fresh, almost spritzy quality. We also found citrus peel and white pepper in the long finish. This wine finished first in our tasting.

- 2002 Chehalem Pinot Gris at $19.99. This wine had the darkest color and offered an aroma of baked apples. It had a creamy texture, and strong acids maintained its structure. Tasters agreed that it tasted like orange cream. A hint of melon appeared on the finish.

- 2002 Rex Hill Pinot Gris at $17.99. This wine had a dark green-gold color. The aroma suggested creamy pears, chalk, limestone and a bit of dustiness. The flavor in the mouth tasted a bit sour, reminding us of unripe pears.

- 2002 Willamette Pinot Gris at $13.99. This wine had the most complex nose, offering cucumber aromas as well as ginger, honey and talcum powder. It smelled very fresh and clean. One taster said it made her think of "utdoors in the spring." However, the wine was disappointing in the mouth, with a watery and flabby texture. Flabby means too creamy from not enough acids.

- 2003 King Estate Domaine Oregon Pinot Gris at $21.99. We smelled fresh lemon, lime and bananas, along with a hint of fennel. This wine was well balanced, with medium acids. It had a short but clean finish. This wine came in second in our tasting.

Surfing the wine shelves:

- 2002 Gallo of Sonoma Pinot Noir Reserve at $13. This wine had a slightly musty smell of the sea mixed with the fragrance of strawberries and raspberries. It tasted of mushrooms, spicy pepper and a hint of oak. It had a smooth finish.

- 2003 Red Bicyclette Chardonnay at $12. The subdued aromas suggested minerals and steel. This crisp wine offered apple and citrus tastes that might make a good match with grilled fish or roasted chicken.

- 2001 Dallas Conte Merlot at $10. Inviting aromas of black cherry and spice met the nose. In the mouth we tasted more cherries with hints of vanilla, spice and rosemary with soft tannins on the end.

of representatives from five wine distributors in Nashville, a wine collector and restaurant critic Thayer Wine. Prices and availability vary by region.